How to use the pedal tester
- Connect your pedals. Pedals plugged into a wheelbase appear as part of the wheel; pedals with their own USB cable appear as a separate device. If more than one device is connected, choose the right one in the device bar.
- Press any pedal or button so the browser shows the device.
- Run the setup. Release all pedals and press “Start setup”. Then press each pedal fully when asked. The tool finds which axis belongs to which pedal and in which direction it moves. Skip the clutch if you don't have one.
- Press each pedal all the way down a few times. The bar shows the current value and a marker shows the deepest press reached. A ✓ appears when a pedal reaches 99% or more.
- Run the noise test. Take your feet off the pedals and press “Measure noise”. For five seconds, the tool records how much each signal moves on its own.
You can also assign axes manually with the drop-down menu under each pedal. This helps with unusual setups, such as handbrakes or button boxes with analog levers.
What the numbers mean
| Reading | Healthy result | What a bad result suggests |
|---|---|---|
| Max | 99–100% at full press | The pedal never sends a full input: calibration, a deadzone in the driver, or a sensor that is out of position. |
| Rest | 0–1% with your foot off | The pedal doesn't return to zero: a weak spring, a misaligned sensor, or calibration done with a foot on the pedal. |
| Noise | below about ±0.5% | The signal wanders on its own: worn potentiometer, interference or a loose connector. |
| Spikes | 0 during normal use | Short jumps that snap straight back are a classic sign of a dirty or worn potentiometer track. |
These are practical guide values, not manufacturer specifications. A brand-new potentiometer pedal and a load cell brake will look different on the graph, and that's expected. What matters most is a consistent result: a pedal that reached 100% last week and now stops at 90% has changed.
Why spikes matter
Many entry-level pedals use potentiometers: a wiper slides over a resistive track. As the track wears or collects dust, the wiper briefly loses contact and the signal jumps. In a race, this shows up as random throttle blips or a brake that locks for a split second. The tester only counts jumps that snap straight back within a few frames, so quickly stomping on a pedal is not counted as a spike. If you see spikes, our guide “Pedals not reaching 100%” covers cleaning and the most common fixes.
“Combined pedals” warning
Some drivers can merge throttle and brake into a single axis, a legacy mode for older games. In that mode, the axis rests in the middle and moves one way for throttle and the other way for brake, so you cannot press both at once. If the tester shows this warning, switch to separate axes in the driver software.
Load cell and hydraulic brakes
A load cell brake measures how hard you press rather than how far the pedal moves. You may need much more force than you expect to reach 100%, and many drivers let you set the maximum force. If your load cell brake never reaches 100% in the tester, check that setting before suspecting a fault. Hydraulic pedals behave in a similar way: the pressure sensor decides the reading, not the pedal travel.
Frequently asked questions
The tool assigned the wrong axis to a pedal.
Run the setup again and press only one pedal at a time, fully and steadily, or choose the correct axis in the drop-down menu under that pedal.
My brake reaches 100% halfway through its travel.
A brake that saturates early is usually set up that way in software. Some players prefer it, but it reduces control. Check brake force or saturation settings in the driver and in the game.
Can I test pedals connected to a console?
No. Pedals must be connected to the computer running the browser, either directly or through the wheelbase.
Is my data stored?
No. The test runs in your browser and nothing is sent to our server. Reloading the page clears all results.
